Christmas in Rome. Instructions for getting lost
Rome in December doesn’t ask for approval. It doesn’t pose. It lights up because it’s December, not because it has something to prove. The lights on Via del Corso come on with the same inevitability as the moment Romans find themselves, at some point on Christmas Eve, sitting down at the table. It isn’t excitement, it’s familiarity, it’s home calling.
Anyone looking for Nordic perfection, the kind of cities that at Christmas seem to have stepped out of a tin of Danish biscuits, everything neat, everything scheduled, everything photo ready, has chosen the wrong latitude. Here it’s as it always is, beautiful and impossible, generous and chaotic. Capable of handing you a sunset that takes your breath away, and then leaving you at a bus stop waiting for a bus that never turns up.
Rome Behind the Scenes: The Machine — Trajan’s Markets, when Rome stops being just a backdrop
These aren’t romantic ruins; they’re a machine. Six storeys climbing up the Quirinal, interior spaces that open out and stitch themselves back together, ramps locking different levels into place, a covered gallery linking rooms and functions. As you walk, you realise the plan was drawn to keep people, goods and documents moving – like a contemporary shopping centre, except the idea was born here two thousand years ago. Not a local street market with overlapping voices, but the operational back-room of imperial Rome: tabernae on the street front and, above all, storerooms, offices and archives serving the great Forum of Trajan. Grain, oil, cloth and spices reached Rome through a capillary system of ports, warehouses and administrations. The Markets belong to that network – not the shopfront, but the mechanism that makes the rest possible.